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Garden of the Garden

Tiffany Wang

In the heart of bustling Suzhou, next to the busiest street of Wuzhong District, lies a small, unassuming tea house quite contrastive to to the urban cacophony that surrounds it.


Stepping inside, the clamor of the city fades away, replaced by the soft melody of Chinese zither strains and the faint, tantalizing smell of steeping tea leaves. The house is deigned in a traditional Gusu style, where each room is quite well arranged in a way of elegance tinged with a touch of translucency: Furniture carved from rich, dark wood, decorated with intricate, traditional patterns of pine trees, delicate ink wash paintings adorning the walls, verdant bamboo pots peacefully placed on the table and window sills, telling its visitors as if they are on a tour to Suzhou’s traditional gardens.


The Garden-like Tea House


Even during the working hours, the tea house was remarkably quiet. When I was invited, it was not serving a single customer. Answering my knock was a young lady. She wore a pink velvet cheongsam, a throwback to convention seldom seen on someone her age. Yet, within the context of the tea house, it seemed rather fitting.


She is a tea sommelier, and was graduated from a nearby university just two years ago. Yet, contrasting to her young age, her demeanor in serving tea rendered an exceptionally seasoned proficiency. Her movements were fluid and practiced, where each step of the tea serving process executed with a precision and skills that revealed her dedication to the job.


Tea and Snack


“Tea culture in China is a very complex topic. There are serval kinds of teas, and each tea can be appreciated differently. Different ways of tea appreciation change the tea’s original flavor and the way you cook the tea. Even a slight variation can transform the taste and aroma, creating a completely different sensory experience for the tea drinkers. As a tea sommelier, it is my duty to satisfy the preferences of the customers through the selections of teas and different brewing techniques for different requirements.”


Tea Culture in China


When she talked, I could see her being quite absorbed, as if she was a guide in the museum introducing a nuanced art, or an enthusiastic teacher imparting knowledge to her students in an immersive lesson. What truly struck me was how she brought the seemingly distant world of tea culture to a closer touch, and allowed me to interact with this rich tradition that had, until then, been an abstract concept.


Her passion flowed in her words, as her utterance continued.


“It's a fascinating role, and it is also interesting to learn this knowledge. One of the most discussed is the choice of tea. For example, for customers from Eastern part of China, we can serve them with green teas like Biluochun and Longjin. These are popular choices in their local areas and it offers a taste of home. On the other hand, Northerners might prefer a more robust flavor, such as black teas….”


A Pot of Green Tea


As I stepped out of the tea house, the bustling reality outside quickly reclaimed my senses. The melodies of zither strains and the lingering aroma of freshly steeped tea leaves were swiftly swallowed by the city roaring sounds and the relentless assault of the sun-baked air. Yet, my recollection towards it persisted, just like the tea's subtle grassy flavor, mixed with a slight bitterness, that continued to last.


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